Main Facts
For her latest seasonal presentation, designer Emilia Wickstead chose a path less traveled by traditional runway purists. Stepping away from the conventional live-model format that has long defined her brand, Wickstead debuted a meticulously crafted collection film. The screening took place within the familiar confines of her Sloane Street flagship store in London, realized in creative collaboration with legendary restaurateur Jeremy King.
The core inspiration for the collection stems from an unexpected muse: the trailblazing 1940s American Abstract Expressionist artist Lenore "Lee" Krasner. While historically overshadowed in mainstream cultural memory by her marriage to fellow artist Jackson Pollock, Wickstead’s collection focuses entirely on Krasner’s individual artistic legacy, singular aesthetic, and relentless drive for reinvention.
The collection successfully bridges the gap between high-fashion fantasy and real-world functionality. It introduces brand-new design motifs—such as lightweight cotton tweeds, structural feather trimmings, and asymmetrical necklines—while retaining Wickstead’s signature architectural silhouettes, precision tailoring, and romantic femininity. By collaborating with King, whose upcoming restaurant Simpsons on the Strand provided martinis and gourmet snacks for the premiere, Wickstead aimed to explore how exquisite garments are actually lived in, enjoyed, and animated within real, vibrant environments.
Chronology
The Spark of Inspiration
The genesis of this season’s pivot occurred during last season’s live runway show. Standing backstage, Wickstead turned to her daughter and shared a spontaneous sentiment: she fancied a change. Rather than forcing another traditional live presentation, the designer resolved to reimagine how her collections are experienced by both the fashion press and her clientele.
Setting the Stage and the Screen
The resulting project came to life through a cinematic lens. The film opens with a visual homage to craftsmanship and curation, featuring painters putting the final coats on a series of pastel-colored rooms. Concurrently, atelier seamstresses apply final touches to a peppermint strapless fit-and-flare gown adorned with a delicate floral print and an ethereal tulle overlay.
The Onscreen Journey
As the film progresses, the runway action begins. A model dressed in an understated pink striped shirt and matching knit skirt moves briskly through the multi-room set. She navigates the space with a purposeful stride, as if she has somewhere urgent to be. The backdrop dynamically shifts from soothing lavender to powdery blue, pale green, and finally, vibrant lemon yellow. This shifting palette constantly recontextualizes the garments, proving that Wickstead’s clothes are designed to adapt to diverse atmospheres.
Supporting Data & Design Analysis
Unpacking the Krasner Influence
Emilia Wickstead is known as a self-confessed old-school designer who likes to anchor her collections in a singular, well-researched reference and stick to it. This season, that anchor was entirely built around Lee Krasner.
- Reclaiming History: Wickstead explicitly rejected the temptation to frame Krasner merely as Pollock’s partner. "I’m only talking about her," Wickstead stated. "I like to celebrate women who should have been talked about more."
- Translating Art into Fabric: For the first time in a spring collection, Wickstead integrated a light cotton tweed into skirts, trousers, and dresses. Woven meticulously with strands of beige, pink, and yellow, the tweed directly echoes the chromatic composition of Krasner’s pivotal 1956 painting, Prophecy.
- Nature and Botanicals: Alongside abstract painterly nods, the collection features hand-painted leaf and field daisy prints. Wickstead noted these patterns were inspired not by Krasner’s canvases, but by the artist’s lifelong, profound love of nature.
- The "Unraveled" Aesthetic: To mirror Krasner’s artistic philosophy—which Wickstead describes as always wanting "to do something a little unraveled"—many garments incorporate slightly frayed silk chiffon trims, giving polished silhouettes an approachable, lived-in feel.
Material Innovation and Technical Adjustments
To address the practical realities of increasingly hot summers without sacrificing elegance, Wickstead engineered several technical innovations within the collection:
- Breathable Hybridization: The designer incorporated tweed panels directly onto black chiffon bases at the front of tops and dresses. Additionally, she embedded chiffon pleat inlays into heavier tweed skirts and viscose dresses to create a breezier, lighter movement.
- The Introduction of Feathers: Marking another first for the brand, feathers make a bold debut. They appear as removable thick trims on a bias-cut tweed minidress-cum-tunic, as a statement border on a striking yellow longline dress, and as intricate, embroidered flora on a yellow A-line minidress and a standout black viscose moiré gown.
- Functional Tailoring: The iconic fit-and-flare dresses—rendered in floral motifs and pink stripes—were designed with deep pockets. Wickstead joked they were "for paintbrushes," acknowledging with a smile that her high-society and royal clientele are unlikely to wear couture into an artist’s studio.
Official Responses and Perspectives
The Designer’s Vision: Emilia Wickstead
Wickstead’s commentary on the collection highlights her desire to push her established design parameters while maintaining commercial viability for her buyers. By experimenting with modifiable necklines, adjustable waistlines, and layered prints, she aimed to provide multiple ways to wear a single garment.
Discussing the more relaxed pieces in the lineup—such as oversized knits layered over loose-fit striped cotton artist shirts and adjustable apron dresses—Wickstead offered a glimpse into her creative daydreaming: "I feel like Lee might have worn this to the studio," she remarked, gesturing toward a pink-and-blue-striped knit and a gray oversized gilet featuring daisy prints on the pockets and back.
The Curation Partner: Jeremy King
Collaborating with London hospitality icon Jeremy King brought an experiential dimension to the fashion presentation that elevated it beyond a standard digital lookbook. King reflected on the intersection of hospitality, curation, and fashion, noting:
"It’s the ability to combine what you’ve learned and what you see that makes something special."
King’s philosophy on shaping environments deeply resonated with Wickstead, who sought to demonstrate that clothes are not merely sculptural objects meant for static observation, but active participants in daily life, dining, and social engagement.
Implications for the Brand and the Industry
Redefining the Fashion Presentation
Emilia Wickstead’s pivot from a traditional live runway show to an immersive, narrative-driven film highlights a broader industry trend: the decentralization of fashion week norms. By utilizing her flagship store as a permanent set and partnering with masters of hospitality, Wickstead created an intimate, multisensory experience. This strategy reduces the ephemeral waste of traditional one-off runway sets while offering digital audiences a richer, more contextualized view of the garments.
Wardrobe Longevity and Commercial Mileage
In an era where sustainability and conscious consumerism increasingly dictate luxury purchasing habits, Wickstead’s design choices carry significant commercial weight. By introducing convertible elements—such as asymmetrical bibs that can be tied up or folded down to adjust décolletage exposure, and apron dresses that transition from loose silhouettes to cinched waists—the collection offers exceptional versatility.
The Emilia Wickstead customer, often accustomed to purchasing high-end event wear, is here offered garments with substantial "mileage." These pieces easily transition from studio-inspired casual daywear to evening sophistication. Through this clever evolution of her classic formula, Wickstead has successfully proven that honoring historical female artists can go hand-in-hand with modern wardrobe utility.
